Ryan's High-End Gaming System
Hardware Component Price
Processor Intel Core i7-950 Bloomfield  45nm
(Quad-core + HTT, 3.06 to 3.33 GHz, 8MB L3, 130W)
$295
Motherboard EVGA X58 SLI3 (Intel X58+ICH10R, LGA1366) $210
Video EVGA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB $510
Alt. Video Sapphire Radeon HD 5970 2GB $460
Memory Corsair XMS3 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1600
(TR3X6G1600C9)
$120
Hard Drive Western Digital Caviar Black 1.5TB (WD1501FASS) $120
SSD OCZ Vertex 2 120GB (-$30 MIR) $205
Optical Drive LG 22X DVDRW (GH22LS50) $17
Sound Card Creative SoundBlaster X-Fi Titanium $80
Case Antec P183 Black Aluminum $155
HSF Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme $65
Power Supply Antec TPQ-850 (850W) $150
Monitor HP ZR24W (24" 1920x1200, S-IPS) $400
Alt. Monitor ASUS VG236H w/3D Kit (23" 1920x1080 TN, 120Hz) $475
Total System Price (Range based on GPU and LCD choice) $2277-$2402

Although PC gaming can actually be quite cheap these days (see our midrange systems from Jarred and Vivek), for the hardcore among us a system built with a GTX 460/6850 class video card isn't going to cut it when it comes getting the most out of the PC's graphical advantage. For that you need to turn to something faster, better, more expandable, and ideally not much louder. To accomplish this goal I went to work on piecing together a system for around $2000 that should be able to tackle everything short of Crysis on Enthusiast settings.

The centerpiece of the system is one of NVIDIA's new GeForce GTX 580s, which currently holds the mantle as the fastest single-GPU card on the market. Being NVIDIA's highest-end video card the GTX 580 is  by far the most expensive component in our system, but it does a great job of mixing performance, image quality (transparency AA), and reasonable amounts of noise. As all the GTX 580s on the market are reference cards, the choice comes down to the manufacturer and whether you want a factory overclocked model or not; in this case I went with EVGA based on availability, their overclocking tools, and their lifetime warranty.

An alternative here is the Radeon HD 5970, which ends up being cheaper. The performance is actually better than the GTX 580 so long as we're not VRAM limited, but the dual-GPU card means we give up some flexibility as 4-way CF scaling is limited at best, and the 5970 is a louder card than the GTX 580. However this option is a better choice if you want to take advantage of AMD's Eyefinity system in combination with 3 cheap 1080P TN monitors.

With our GTX 580 in hand we want to pair it with a fast processor and an SLI-capable motherboard to leave future expansion on the table. For this I'm going with an X58 board, specifically EVGA's X58 SLI3 as it offers strong overclocking abilities and is one of the cheapest SLI capable X58 boards on the market. EVGA has also equipped it with third-party USB3.0 and SATA 6Gbps controllers, giving the board plenty of capability in the future with new generation USB and SATA devices.

For the processor I chose Intel's cheapest X58 Core i7, the Core i7 950. At 3.06GHz base and a 3.33GHz Turbo mode it's already fairly fast, but at this stage in the game Bloomfield overclocking is dead simple. Combined with the massive Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme cooler, there's a very good chance of hitting 4GHz (or more!) on the 950, which should be plenty for even the most stubborn single-threaded game. Just be sure to install the Tuniq Tower on the motherboard before installing the motherboard in the case.

Since this is primarily an overclocked gaming system, I selected Corsair's XMS3 6GB triple-channel DDR3 1600 kit. The CAS9 latency at DDR3 1600 speeds is nothing to write home about, but gaming is rarely latency sensitive and the high speeds of the RAM will be very helpful for overclocking. 12GB is also an option here at a higher price, but at the moment only a couple of games are capable of using more than 2GB/4GB of RAM since few games come with a 64-bit executable.

As for storage, a high-end system deserves flexibility and speed, so I used both an SSD and a traditional hard drive; unfortunately, the size of modern games makes an all-SSD setup impractical. There are a number of fast SDDs on the market, and while you don't necessarily need something that's great at random reads and writes OCZ's SandForce-1200 based Vertex 2 120GB is no slouch at that or at sustained reads and writes; if nothing else it will keep Windows very responsive. Furthermore at 120GB it's big enough for at least a few games, making it perfect for MMOs and their need to aggressively pre-cache and log everything. For more traditional games that don't hit up local storage between levels, the 1.5TB Western Digital Caviar Black is plenty fast and big enough to hold more games than most people could possibly play at once.

Rounding things out I decided to go with a discrete sound card rather than relying on onboard sound. Creative's X-Fi line is still the premiere line of soundcards for gaming, as they bring the audio quality benefits of a discrete sound card with support for OpenAL for modern games and support for EAX for older games. As for external storage just about any DVD burner will do; I'm using a 22X Samsung but there are a number of alternatives. Blu-ray readers are coming down in price, but at this point there's no momentum to distribute games for PCs on Blu-ray discs.

Housing all of this will be Antec's P183, the latest in Antec's noise-optimized P18x series of cases. Ideally we don't want to make any compromises, and a fast system doesn't need to be noisy. Along with the quieter GTX 580 and the Tuniq Tower 120, the Antec P183 is the third and final piece of the puzzle. The triple-layer panels will deaden what sound comes from the CPU and GPU coolers, and the 120mm fans will provide enough airflow to keep things cool. As a mid-tower case it's not particularly huge so I'd suggest removing the upper hard drive bay to give the video card(s) extra room, and consider a 120mm fan mounted behind that if you ever expand to two cards. Antec does build the bigger P193, but this shouldn't be necessary with external exhaust cards like the GTX 580.

In order to power our existing system and to have enough extra power for SLI in the future you'll need a fairly strong PSU, and the Antec TPQ-850 is exactly that; it's also the 850W version of the PSU we use in our GPU test bed. The TPQ-850 balances our power needs against the P183's longer cable requirements (since the PSU is bottom-mounted), and the half-modular cable system means there's no need to clutter the case with extra cables unless they become necessary.

Finally, in a break from most of the other systems, I'm also going to throw in a monitor with this collection. It's my belief that a good monitor should outlast the rest of the system, so it's better to buy something good now rather than something cheap now and something still-cheap later. While this is a high-end system, 30" monitors are in a price category of their own so that leaves us with 24" LCDs. Our choice here is HP's ZR24W, a 24" 1920x1200 S-IPS monitor. It has fast pixel response times that are good for gaming without needing to compromise on the color palate or color accuracy at an angle. However since our default card here is an NVIDIA card, 3D Vision is also an option; if that piques your interest we'd go with ASUS' top of the line VG236H, which is a 23" 120Hz TN panel. The overall image quality isn't as good as the ZR24W, but a 120Hz monitor can be worth it if you like 3D Vision, or just like the 120Hz experience in general. The VG236H also includes an NVIDIA 3D Vision kit, so it won't be necessary to buy that separately.

My high-end gaming build ultimately comes out to just shy of $2000 without the monitor, or $2400-$2500 with it. Peripherals should add another $50-$200 depending on whether you're going to buy anything on top of the mouse and keyboard, such as gamepads, steering wheels, and joysticks.

Anand's Ready for Bulldozer/Sandy SSD System Brian's Dream PC: Reach for the Stars!
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  • SteelCity1981 - Friday, November 19, 2010 - link

    I honestly don't care if I have the latest tech. the way I look at it new tech comes out every 6 months to a year anyhow. I get tech that suits my needs not what's out there. I'm one of those people that wait until the current tech gets replaced by the latest tech which ends up pushing the last gen tech down in price.

    I'll prob be looking at a first gen AM3 system or a LGA 1156 system early next year to replace my aging S939 system I currently have now. By then a lot of the processors and sockets for those systems should see a nice price drop from where they are now.
  • mapesdhs - Friday, November 19, 2010 - link


    A small note on budget systems one might build for friends, etc.
    (especially those without the tech knowledge). I built a PC for my
    neighbour & his family back in May; decided to see what I could do re
    mixing 2nd-hand 'professional' parts and consumer tech, try to make
    something with a bit of quality. I found a mbd/CPU/gfx/RAM combo for
    135 UKP (ASUS M2N-BM-DVI, Athlon64 X2 6000+, OCZ 2GB DDR2/800, ASUS ORB
    8800GT PCIe), LSI 21320-IS SCSI card for 5, U320 SCSI 73GB 15000rpm
    Fujitsu MAX3073NC and cable/adapter for 15 (knocks the socks off SATA
    for access time), and a company was offering a new Coolermaster
    Centurion Plus 534 case half-price for 25. The rest I bought new: 500GB
    SATA Samsung F1 for 40 (as it was back then), CiT 700W PSU for 30,
    Wireless 54Mbit PCI card for 7 and DVDRW for 18. Total: 275 UKP

    The main idea was to have a fast & responsive system disk, but with a
    normal SATA for data, so it feels very nippy but still has decent
    storage. The resulting setup ran very nicely (and the mbd combo came
    with Stalker, complete/boxed. :)

    http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=138917...

    For a display though, I recommended they buy new, something decent,
    which they did for 138 (LG W2254TQ-PF 22" 1680x1050, 2ms, 300 cdm/2,
    1000:1). Same cost today gets 1920x1080.

    They do a lot of surfing, so the fast system disk really helps.

    Just thought I'd mention for those who like to be a bit adventurous...

    (the landscape of what is available has changed since then, but the
    same concepts still apply)

    Ian.

    PS. Access time speed ref (the Fujitsu beats a WD VR 10K):

    http://www.sgidepot.co.uk/diskdata.html#ACCESS
  • precarious - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    "never mind the old single-core Athlon 64 3800+ running in my daughter's computer!"

    does she really need more than that to download recipes and msds sheets for the latest household cleaning products?
  • JarredWalton - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    FYI, my daughter turns eight tomorrow. LOL It's more like Noggin.com for her.
  • ManjyomeThunder - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    I see that you mention the Das in your ultimate-uber-badass dream gaming rig. And that's perfectly fine, it's a great keyboard, but I thought I'd take a second to clarify a few things.

    1) The link specified is for the "Silent" model of the Das Keyboard, which uses non-clicky, tactile Cherry MX Brown switches. While these keyboards do provide tactile feedback just like, say, the Model M, the majority of any sound produced is from "bottoming out" the keys. The normal Das keyboard uses Cherry MX Blue switches, which are tactile and clicky, and produce a more distinct sound like the Model M, only much more high pitched.

    2) The Das Keyboard is far from being the "modern Model M". If anything, the direct equivalent of the Model M would be the Customizer 101, manufactured by Unicomp in Lexington, Kentucky. They own the rights to the patents and such on the Model M, and produce nearly identical keyboards for an affordable price. I'm typing on a black Customizer 104 now, which costs a fair bit less than the Das keyboard. There are also somewhat smaller models such as the "SpaceSaver" available. Make sure to pick up a model that uses "buckling spring" switches (most of theirs do), because that's what makes it mechanical and clicky.

    3) In addition to Unicomp, there are a large number of mechanical keyboards, including Razer's new BlackWidow, the Deck Legends, Filco Majestouches and Steelseries 7G. There are a lot of different switches, each with their own unique properties, so it's best to look into these things before you buy them. A good place to start would be over at GeekHack. We're all keyboard nerds there.
  • raghu1111 - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    I would like to know estimated idle power consumption for AMD and i3 budget systems. Dell 580s with i3 550 lists idle power at 40 watts.. which is very good.

    My use case : this is an always on computer running ubuntu. I don't plan to put it in sleep mode and hence the sensitivity to power consumption. I have been using a laptop as desktop for this reason so far.
  • JarredWalton - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    Here's Anand's figures from Bench for two similar setups:
    http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/122?vs=143

    Note that those both have a 5870 GPU, so you can knock off around 10-15W if you go with IGP or a low-end GPU. I figure an Intel i3-550 setup can probably get down to around 40W idle power draw for the entire system, depending on components, where an Athlon II X4 will end up 10-15W higher. Running 24/7 you're looking at a power bill difference of around $10-$15 per year in most places, so it's nothing major -- though if you were doing something like a Folding@Home PC I think the difference might be more like 35-40W at load.
  • raghu1111 - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    Thanks Jarred. The page lists 66 W at idle. IGP should be good enough to start with for me. I can disconnect DVD drive (may be just a couple of watts). May be I am looking at best case of 50 W.
  • Out of Box Experience - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    I want a tablet PC that can control a REAL computer in realtime, with compressed graphics sent wirelessly from my tower to the tablet at FULL frame rates.
    It needs wireless usb3 for sending data and controlling the tower with bidirectional throughput (USB2 is a one way street)

    I also want a mini-ITX tower with a built in KVM switch and a power supply that can handle 2 or more motherboards

    I want hard drives that have a read only switch (like SDHC cards) so I can backup ALL my stuff without worrying about viruses & worms

    I want mini-itx motherboards with built in digital audio amps (Low powered for mobility)

    and while I'm dreaming, lets make XP-Pro open source so we can fix it properly and add SSD support!

    and I want it all by Christmas
    Thanx Santa
  • raghu1111 - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    What would be the idle power consumption for i3 550 based budget system. would AMD based much different. Dell lists Inspiron i3 550 based 580s at 40 Watt, which is pretty good.

    My use case : always-on Ubuntu desktop. not planning to set it to sleep mode. 3D graphics performance is a not an issue.

    Thanks.

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