Many predicted that 2007 would be the year of the digital SLR, and industry shipments confirm the huge growth in DSLR sales. In a time where home sales fell through the floor in the US and gas prices began to soar, digital SLR sales have grown dramatically. In the third quarter of this year digital camera sales increased 22% compared to the previous year, but industry breakdowns show DSLR sales almost doubled in the same period.

That means that this holiday season many of you will be looking for a new digital SLR camera to replace an aging point-and-shoot digital or an earlier DSLR. While there haven't been many new entry-level models in the last year, the $1000 "advanced amateur" models of last year are today's entry-level DSLR. Several manufacturers have also redefined "entry-level" SLR down to $400 and have very capable models selling for that price, including a lens.

Only a few new models have appeared in "Entry-level" this year. We will cover these in a look at entry-level choices. However, the last few months have seen a deluge of new "prosumer" digital SLRs aimed at the photo hobbyist, advanced amateur, and even some pro photographers on a budget. The important thing about the advanced amateur and prosumer DSLR markets is the influence those cameras will eventually have on entry-level models. For that reason, we will explore some of the most interesting features of the new prosumer models.

The digital SLR market has also seen the downward push of pro or near-pro models into the consumer space. A prime example of that is the Canon EOS 5D full-frame SLR. When it was introduced a couple of years ago it was hailed as a true bargain at around $3500. If you look around today, you will find this popular semi-pro model has dropped to a $2499 list price and you can actually find the 5D for around $2000 if you shop carefully. That is certainly close to the $1400 to $1800 prosumer price range, providing an additional option for photo hobbyists or pros looking for a good buy.

If you are shopping for a digital camera but you're not really a photo hobbyist, you might want to start with our overview of digital photography in Digital Photography from 20,000 Feet. In that introduction, we cover the terms and concepts used in this DSLR Buyers' Guide. If you're already a photo hobbyist then dive in.

To put the current DSLR market in perspective, the full-frame (24mmx36mm) sensor and the Olympus 4/3 sensor (13.5mmx18mm or half the diagonal of full-frame 35mm) represent the two ends of the current DSLR market. Full-frame DSLRs use traditional 35mm lenses, so you don't need to worry about multipliers. 4/3 is a digital-only standard supported by Olympus, Leica, Panasonic, Sigma, Fuji, and Sanyo. Lenses designed for 4/3 will work on any 4/3 camera and they are not designed to be used with larger or smaller sensors. Since the sensor diagonal is half the size of 35mm, the 4/3 lenses behave like 35mm lenses that are twice their focal length.



You can see these two ends in a Canon 5D with an optical image-stabilized 28-135mm lens sitting beside the diminutive Olympus E-510 with a 14-42mm lens and body-integral (mechanical) image-stabilization. The full-frame Canon 1Ds Mark III, 1D Mark III and upcoming Nikon D3 are even larger than the EOS 5D, but you get the idea. Similarly, the Olympus E-410 is even smaller than the E-510.

However, the majority of today's digital SLRs fall in between these two standards, using a very nonstandard sensor somewhere around APS-C size (22mmx15mm). This is why we have a range of lens multipliers on today's DSLR cameras, depending on brand. Nikon, Sony, Pentax, and Samsung are at 1.5x, Canon is at 1.6x, and the specialized Sigma Foveon sensor is at 1.74x. These multipliers represent how 35mm lenses will appear on these cameras - because they mainly use 35mm lenses. That means an 18-70mm lens on a 1.5x camera would appear like a 27mm-105mm lens on a 35mm film camera. There are also dedicated lenses for these in-between sensors with names like DX. They work fine on the digital SLR, but they are not usable on full-frame DSLR or 35mm film cameras.

It isn't as complicated as it sounds, since you mainly will pick your camera brand and stick with it, buying camera maker lenses or those compatible with the DSLR you choose. However, understanding the larger picture also helps in making informed long-term buying decisions.

Prosumer SLRs
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  • andrew007 - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    Oh yeah, almost forgot. There is one more complaint - focus hunting. I never had a SLR before so I can't compare but it seemed to me that E410 has trouble focusing in some situations (not just low light) more than an DSLR should. It does have the least focus points of any DSLR if I remember correctly so that may be the reason. In the end I often just use the center sensor and manually lock focus, then do the composition.
  • haplo602 - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    Hey nice to see the new DSLR buyers guide.

    I'd comment on the missing Pentax K10D, but who cares ? No Live View, only 10MP, 22bit A/D, dust and weather sealed, image stabilisation. AND a VERY long supply of high quality Pentax lenses... sub 1000$ ... but who cares ? It's last year news (tho you cover olympus 410/510 which are also not new).

    I see you adapted the computer world obsession for numbers and new models. Get rid of it. Fast.

    If I would buy a new DSLR now it would be either Pentax K10D (and I own a few Nikon lenses) or the Nikon D300 (but this is the more expensive decision).
  • Frumious1 - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    Yes, I'd comment on the missing Pentax K10D... except it's already on page 5.

    "Alternative: If low-light performance is a major concern, then you would do well to choose the Sony A100 kit with the 18-70mm kit lens. For a bit more money, the Pentax K10D gives you a great 11-point focus module, all the other features, and pro-type dust and moisture sealing."
  • haplo602 - Monday, November 26, 2007 - link

    Ah ... I knew I missed the Pentax section with nice picture of the K10D and a 1/2 page description like all the others got ... NOT !
  • melgross - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    I don't understand the statement here that only full frame and 4/3 are standard. This seems to be some prejudice on the part of the writer, who seems to be pushing Olympus very strongly.

    The APS "C" sensor is more standard than is the 4/3. Just take a look at how many companies are producing "C" sensors, and how many are producing 4/3.

    That said, my 5D does produce some of the best pictures around (though I'm looking forward to its expected replacement at the PPA in March.
  • lumpy327 - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    Glad to see this column back!! Good article overall, but I wish Pentax had been included too, I miss HyperProgram from my film camera.

    As a photography student, I'd like to add my two pennies worth to deciding on what camera.

    First, if you have good lenses from older cameras, consider sticking w/ that brand. Bodies are cheap compared to good lenses, and there are good, in-depth reviews of lenses, like lightrules, on the web.

    Second, there are plenty of reviews of cameras on the web, so do your homework. Look for fast autofocus, and just as important, low light auto focus speed, w/ and w/o flash and w/ and w/o image stabilization. Trying to get pictures of your childs face on christmas WILL SUCK if your camera keeps hunting and strobing the flash, then picks a bulb on the tree to focus on. Try to pony up for image stabilization, it really helps to get pictures in low light w/o using the flash, and most pictures w/o on camera flash are much nicer. Just to put autofocus in perspective, I'm a pentax guy that uses a canon, but if the d300's 51 point autofocus works as well as it should, I'd seriously consider switching.
    Closely related to this is ISO number. Look for the lowest noise at the highest iso numbers. Many websites include crops of pictures at all iso numbers, check them to to see if its worth going to ISO1600. I'll say this, most sensors do well to ISO800 if exposed properly and to ISO1600 if exposed properly and kept highkey.
    (don't worry about daylight, outdoor shots, most DSLR's and their lenses do well in bright light.)

    Third, if your coming from a P&S, try get live view or what ever its called. It's very difficult to learn to keep the view finder up to your eye; if you see it thru the view finder, you missed the shot. Thats just the way DSLR's work.

    I hope this helps, even if its just one person. These cameras are not cheap, and its way too easy to overbuy, like I did. EOS 30D owner.



  • JCheng - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    The D300 shipped on Wednesday--I have one in my hands.
  • Lord 666 - Thursday, November 29, 2007 - link

    I got mine last night and ho-hum about it as I upgraded from a D80. The ISO range is a welcome improvement, but need to spend some more time with it this weekend to feel it out. Set the deadline of this Sunday if I am going to return it. Need to do some more comparison shots using the 18-200 VR lens over the next couple days.



  • Heidfirst - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    It's nice to see someone who isn't totally CaNikon blinkered.
    The OM E510 looks to be a very good camera & even cheap in the UK too (Olympus rebates) as is the Pentax K10D.
    The Sony A700 looks to at least match if not better the EOS 40D although it's a bit dearer.
    & Sony A100 apparently is due for replacement Q1 2008 so that could be another interesting camera to watch out for.

    It's an extremely competitive market so prices are falling & there are no bad DSLRs so it's a win all round for the consumers.
  • StephenP - Friday, November 23, 2007 - link

    The Sony=Supplier for Nikon sensors so the next pro Sony will be full-frame argument isn't valid for full frame... The D3 uses a Nikon inhouse developed sensor, unless ofcourse Sony borows it from Nikon.

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