Corsair Hydro Series: H60, H80 and H100 Reviewed
by Jared Bell on November 7, 2011 12:00 AM EST- Posted in
- Cases/Cooling/PSUs
- Corsair
- Water Cooling
Test Setup
| Cooling Test System | |
| Case | Corsair Graphite Series 600T |
| Processor | Intel Core i7-2600K (4x3.4GHz, 3.8GHz Turbo, 32nm) |
| Motherboard | ASUS P8P67 Pro (BIOS version 1502) |
| Memory | G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1866 Kit |
| Graphics Card | MSI GTX 580 Lightning |
| Solid State Drive | OCZ Agility 2 120GB |
| Hard Drive | Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB |
| Power Supply | Corsair HX850 Power Supply |
| Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional 64-bit |
| Test Coolers |
Stock Intel HSF Corsair H60/H80/H100 Thermalright Silver Arrow |
| Thermal Compound | Arctic Cooling MX-2 |
Testing Procedures
For temperature testing we load our Core i7-2600K's four cores and eight threads using Prime95 version 26.6. For the sake of consistency, we use the Small FFT stress test. Most likely in daily use, your CPU will rarely reach the temperatures Prime95 and other applications used for stress testing will produce. This should present a worst-case scenario for CPU temperatures and allow us to really see how these CPU coolers handle heavy loads. Due to fluctuations in the ambient temperature during testing, albeit minor, we use delta temperatures to compare results.
Real Temp version 3.67 is used to monitor and log temperatures with samples taken once every second. We run each test for 15 minutes, take the average temperature of all four cores, and use a three minute rolling average to calculate the results. The final temperature is the average of the last three minutes from the test. We then take the final calculated temperature and subtract the room’s average ambient temperature to get our delta temperature. This method has the least temperature fluctuations and is the most consistent.
In addition to the Corsair Hydro Series coolers, we’re testing with Intel’s stock HSF as a baseline, and representing high-end air-cooling is the frankly massive Thermalright Silver Arrow. The Silver Arrow comes with two 140mm fans, with one fan sandwiched between the two large radiator towers. It also weighs in at a hefty 825g without the fans, or around 1.2kg with the fans and clips. Thankfully, it comes with a good mounting solution so as to avoid putting too much strain on your motherboard, but there’s no denying the fact that this is a heavy cooler.
Each cooler is mounted and retested three times to verify good contact was made. We use Arctic Cooling MX-2 instead of the thermal interface material (TIM) that comes preinstalled on the test CPU coolers. There is no curing time allowed between mounts or changing CPU coolers—the MX-2 TIM we use claims not to need curing anyway. These methods help ensure consistency across all tested coolers as well as provide comparable results.
We test each cooler at the Core i7-2600K's stock 3.5GHz frequency, which is the speed it runs at if all four cores are maxed out at 100% and Turbo Boost is enabled. For testing purposes, we disable Turbo Boost and manually set the clock speed to 3.5GHz, with Hyper-Threading enabled; the stock speed runs at 1.16V. We also perform the same set of tests with the CPU overclocked to 4.8GHz using 1.4V, again with Turbo off and Hyper-Threading on.
For noise measurements, we use a Check Mate CM-140 SPL meter. All noise tests are conducted between 1 and 3 AM to ensure the lowest possible ambient noise. In our test environment, we measured ~29 dBA with the test system turned off. Before and after each noise test, the same ambient ~29 dBA measurement was verified. We measured 1 foot away from the test chassis with all doors installed. Our goal is that this method for measuring noise will best mimic a typical usage scenario, though obviously the choice of case, power supply, and graphics card also plays a role.
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Samus - Wednesday, November 9, 2011 - link
I thought I'd chime in on some research I've done.The pump on the H50 is rated at 220lph
The pump on the H60 is rated at 180lph
The pump on the H80/H100 is rated at 220lph
So anybody in the market for the 'economy' water cooling solution is far better off with the older H50, which also has a thicker radiator (same radiator as the H80)
Liter-per-hour ratings can be found as Asetek's site. They are the OEM for these kits.
james.jwb - Thursday, November 10, 2011 - link
Most air coolers do a very fine job these days, what I'd like to see is a water cooler for GPUs because the stock or third party models at the moment are poor. If you want low noise, none of them do a good job.Make a decent closed water cooler for GPUs!
alown - Friday, November 11, 2011 - link
Would have been nice if they could have compared it to the H70 I own.DJShadow - Friday, December 2, 2011 - link
I'm surprised there isn't a review of the Antec Kuhler models.westh2o - Wednesday, December 28, 2011 - link
I wish someone would have told me how friggen loud this thing was. OMG I couldn’t stand it anymore. I just finished replacing the Stock Corsair fans with 2 Noctua NF-P12's. What a HUGE difference!!! My system is super quiet now..... After spending over $100 and now I need to spend another $20 buck is not cool in my book!davele - Tuesday, January 10, 2012 - link
Thanks was a useful article. But would be much better if it considered the newer x79 systems.1. The newer i7-3960, 3930 chips have a thermal output of 130W. This is way higher than many SB OC systems. And only gets worse if you OC it. So it would be useful to see what Coolers can handle that kind of thermal load.
2. The LGA2011 die size is larger, so handy to know which coolers can fit over its surface efficiently.
3. It would be useful to know which coolers actually have sufficient clearance to function without compromising the use of your system. ie You can still populate all 8 RAM slots & actually use the 1st PCI slot.
Eg: Can Corsair style 52mm high RAM fit? Do you need to drop to 40mm G.Skill sized RAM or are you unable to use the 1st RAM slot at all. Similarly the 1st PCI slot is often designed to run fastest. With the other slots share the bandwidth if you populate with more cards.
While I suspect most of the popular Air Coolers (ie: ThermalRight, Noctua) will not fit correctly, which may force you to choose a Water Cooled system.
It would be really useful to know the facts.
Rag1ngR1ce - Saturday, January 21, 2012 - link
i got my h60 for 30$ on boxing day after MIR, what a steal. How ever, my first one leaked and Ihad to return for a new one. I dont think any 30$ heatsink is better than the h60
mach2plus - Monday, January 23, 2012 - link
Hi folks. Just last week I attempted to mount a new Corsair H100 in a new Rosewill Blackhawk Mid-Tower, and no matter how I tried to manipulate things, I just couldn't get them to mate... And while my configuration is just that, mine, I believe the generalities that I am about to write about may help others understand more about the H100, and case/motherboard compatibility issues that you may need to consider.So, for accessibility, I first removed the top of the Blackhawk case, and then removed its preinstalled 140mm fan. (BTW, I had premeasured everything beforehand, and I knew that there was probably going to be a problem, but tried fitting it in anyways...) I then mounted the H100 radiator inside the case, without its two fans, on the very top of the case, where the 140mm fan use to be. Using the hardware provided by Corsair, I loosely screwed in the 8 screws. DING, FIRST PROBLEM: Fortunately, I had seen that the Corsair screws appeared too long, and that if I were to have torqued them down securely, all 8 screws would have definitely damaged the H100 radiator fins (though not the actual piping with the coolant, as best as I could tell, but why chance it?), so be forewarned about this.
I then loosely mounted my new, unpopulated, Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3 LGA1155 onto the provided stand-offs, and DING, SECOND PROBLEM: The hardware provided by Rosewill to mount the Mobo to the standoffs is the type that have raised ribs on the underside of the screwhead, used to "dig into" the solder on your Mobo, and the copper tracing! A Newegg reviewer had pointed this out, so I was aware of the issue, but if you torqued these screws down securely onto your Mobo, you will damage the copper tracing, so go out and get yourself some better quality hardware, without ribs, if you want to save your Mobo. You'll get the same connectivity, without damaging the mobo.
So, now the real fun began, as I tried to ever so carefully attach each of the H100 fans to the underside of the H100 radiator. I was just barely able to physically mount the first fan, the rearmost, to the underside of the radiator (Corsair provides the hardware for doing this), but DING, THIRD PROBLEM: the fan (not the radiator) physically blocked my Gigabyte Mobo's SYS Fan1 connector. While this in itself can obviously be worked around, DING, PROBLEM FOUR: I couldn't even physically mount the forward H100 fan to the H100 radiator because all four of the upper DDR3 1-4 memory socket retaining clips were in the way, in a big way! In addition, even if I was able to mount the H100 fan, it would have completely blocked my Mobo CPU FAN connector, much like the rear fan had blocked the SYS Fan1 connector.
Now, remember, my Mobo was unpopulated at the time, and the memory sockets were empty, so even if your particular case/mobo combo could provide sufficient space for the H100 fan, you still have to remember to consider that your memory may have cooling fins attached to it, which may prevent you from attaching the forward fan. Just a consideration.
Other thoughts. My new Blackhawk Case was damaged on arrival, so it was RMA'd and I'm awaiting its replacement. I reaally liked the Blawkhawk case, so I am now considering using a Corsair H80 cooling system, versus the H100, and mounting the H80 where the Blackhawks rear 120mm fan comes pre-installed. That, or I'm considering mounting just the H100 radiator inside of the Blawkhawk case, at the very top (per the above install that I had problems with), and then mounting the two H100 fans on the outside top of the Blawkhawk case, directly above the H100 radiator, and on top of the Blawkhawks upper case mesh. My concerns with this arrangement obviously are how this setup might alter the H100's cooling potential.
I hope some of this info helps those of you who are considering getting a non-stock cooling system, be it water or air.
Best regards -- Bob
qwopqwop - Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - link
in this case picture the inner radiator fan is mounted in the wrong direction, it is blowing the heat from the radiator into the case, you need to switch the fan direction around (and possibly do the review over again).http://images.anandtech.com/doci/5054/h80-installe...
erroll1906 - Monday, September 10, 2012 - link
Hi everyone bought my H100 today and if you want to do a push pull configuration,you need more screws.The screws come as a english thread 6/32 unc x 1 1/4 Long.Which ain't easy to get hold of.There are quite a few complaints that the screws are too long crushing the fins on the radiator.I have a solution for you.I worked for a fastening company so I know this works.I used M3x30mm Steel Button Head Screws with washers as the thread pitch are nearly the same as each other.Excellent fit as the screws are 2mm shorter than the others.