Brightness and Contrast

For brightness, black level, and contrast points, we use the same colorimeter setup described earlier. Specifically, an Xrite i1D2 with ColorEyes Display Pro, and take measurements. Dynamic contrast is always turned off, as this throws off our results. We also let the panels settle in for a half hour at the respective settings before taking any measurements. This is especially important for the X270W since it has a CCFL backlight, and as such there is a discernible warm up period.

Black level is an important metric, since it directly represents the extinction ratio of the crossed polarizers in the TN cells. Remember, when a pixel is desired to be black, the photoelectric crystal in the cell changes linearly polarized light 90 degrees out of phase, so it is blocked by the polarizer. Higher extinction ratios (and thus better crystals and materials) result in lower (better) black levels.

We recommend running monitors at around 200 nits of luminous intensity, just because this is often where some of the best color tracking sits, and it’s enough of a balance to not result in eye stress from looking around the room and having your pupil adjust. I personally am a bit of a light-crazy person and usually crank my displays brightness to the max (I consider 400 nits normal), but again, forget I ever said that. ;-)

The charts show the dynamic range in brightness, and the respective black levels at each brightness. Brightness isn’t quite up to the 400 nits spec, falling short at 293. This is still pretty bright, but not quite as bright as I’m used to. Again, CCFL isn’t the brightest, but it does give better color gamut than WLED.

What we’re really interested in, however, is the contrast ratio. At the extreme, we fall short of 1000:1 with 720 and 646 at both brightness ends. Respectable, but not stellar.

Update: We were able to get the X270W up past the 400 nit specification by changing contrast to 100% in addition to brightness. At those settings, the brightness for white is 411 nits, and blacks are 0.47 nits. We've updated the graphs above to reflect those changes. Contrast also improved slightly, up from 720 to 875.

Obviously, the X270W can go bright if you set the OSD settings appropriately. Things are more washed out than we'd like with contrast at 100%, but you do get all of those cd/m^2 you pay for, and 11 more.

Analysis: Color Consistency Analysis: Brightness Uniformity
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  • LouieIV - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    Why are monitors still coming out without displayport???
  • pjladyfox - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    You will probably want to look for a Sony GDM-FW900 CRT display. These can do DVI output via a BNC-to-DVI cable which I've personally used myself back when I had one:

    http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-home.pl?mdl...

    http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1261195

    Failing that you will want to look for any CRT that has BNC connectors on it since, as you already noted, finding a CRT with a DVI-D connector is going to be next to impossible.
  • JarredWalton - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    As far as I know, if you use something like a DVI to BNC adapter, all you're doing is getting the DVI-A signal. In fact, I don't think anyone ever made a CRT that uses DVI-D for the signal. I'm not sure it matters, though, since ultimately the signal has to be analog on the CRTs. The problem is the GDM-FW900 is hard to find, and if you can find one they're used and cost $500+. (Not to mention they weigh a ton. LOL)
  • pjladyfox - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    That's true however the OP did not specify DVI-D over DVI-I. ^_^ But you are right that there never was a CRT made that had DVI-D output since that was when they were transitioning that tech over the LCD's. However, at least you have a starting point for finding a monitor locally 'tho while the FW900 is expensive it's pretty much the pinnacle of CRT displays.
  • Craig234 - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    I logged in, wrote a several paragraph review over 5 minues, and hit post and it lots the post with 'you need to login'.

    So a 1 paragraph summary:

    I bought it after XP21 $2300 and Sony XP900 CRT's for gaming/web, I like bright and colorful and no screendoor, and I like this monitor as a 'sweet spot' that looks very good with good value.
  • prof.yustas - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    I know a lot of people who really want to see HP ZR24W reviewed. Are you going to review it? It would be nice if you could compare HP ZR24W to DELL U2410.

    Thanks.
  • Brian Klug - Friday, May 21, 2010 - link

    Oops, I forgot to reply. The ZR24W is on its way, and I'm eager to test it out! ;)

    -Brian
  • Ninjahedge - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    I was a bit hopeful on this, but they all like to scale down the vertical resolution so it is really not much more desktop space.

    This is a gamer/vid screen, not a workspace.

    It is hard, ever since I picked up my existing old school 20" dells (1600x1200) and have them hooked side-by-side, getting a single to match the desktop space is almost impossible (the 30" at 2560x1600 would be GREAT!, but $1200???? I can get a full size TV or a "MidRange Gamers System" for that! ;) )

    It would be nice to start side stepping like I did with my last config (a 1600x1200 with a 17" in portrait mode rotated next to it) and put a wider monitor with the same vertical resolution and dot pitch next to it. Otherwise, I think I am just going to have to wait for teh Colossus Screens to come down below $1000!
  • erple2 - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    You do realize why the 30" screen costs so much more, right? Nearly double the actual pixel count is one of the reasons. Using a better (and more expensive) screen technology is another. Those 30" 1200+ dollar monitors will still look substantially better than any consumer grade TV you can buy (and pretty much anything you see at any retail store will be consumer grade). There's a reason why they cost that much.

    Curiously, bigger is NOT always better in the case of monitors. Something that so few people seem to understand...
  • juzz86 - Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - link

    I dunno mate, I have a HP LP3065 and it's the best I've ever seen! I do agree though, in the case of going bigger you definitely have to drop more money to see an improvement.

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