Antec Performance One
by Purav Sanghani on February 13, 2005 12:05 AM EST- Posted in
- Cases/Cooling/PSUs
The Installation Process
Though there were many tool-less features included in the P160, the installation process took about 10-12 minutes to complete. We felt that the hard drive trays were a nice, but unnecessary feature, since we still had to screw the drives to the trays to install them, still requiring four screws. Drive rails would have been a better choice and would have resulted in quicker and easier installations. The upside to the trays was the rubber grommets and ease of use once the drives were mounted to the trays.
Click to enlarge.
The motherboard also took about 3 minutes to install because we had to secure it with screws, and before that, we had to screw in the stand-offs.
The power supply was also very easy to install, since we had plenty of extra space to work with. We actually used the thumbscrews from the left side panel to mount the unit as we did not need them for the panel.
Something that we noticed with the wiring for the temperature sensors was that they were grouped together with a couple of motherboard connectors all the way up to the ends. We can still peel them apart, but sometimes the jackets of the wires may tear open in the process.
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expostfacto - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
I have this case. Overall, I'm happy with it. Remember that it is aluminum and soft. I have only stripped out one screw hole so far...Live - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
Smn198 is right on. The decibel graphs should be logarithmic. I'm sure excel can do that rather easily. Much easier for people to compare and its about bloody time the manufacturers start to get pressured about the unbearable sound levels (Hello Intel :D)puddnhead - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
I think #38 makes a VERY good suggestion for the reviewers here to implement. The results graphs would be much more meaningful.Filibuster - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
#33 I can't say it any better. I love mine.From looking at the P180 stuff I feel it will cost quite a bit more. The P160 was about $160 or so when it launched if I recall correctly and the P180 does have a few more features. Personally I like the look of the P160 better but I'm glad they are doing it different though so there is a real choice to be made.
smn198 - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
Good review as always, this time with a good case too ;)Can I make one suggestion though? As decibels are logrithmic, can the graphs be shown as such. e.g. 60dB should be twice the size of 50db.
bob661 - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
The Aspire X-Alien case that is the same internally as this Antec for $73 at newegg.puddnhead - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
I'm with #18, to me this case is what you get when you start with a Sonata and1) change from steel black to silver Al
2) add another 5 1/4 bay
3) move the front audio/firewire/usb ports to top from middle
4) add LED temp display
5) move the second 120mm fan mount to in front of HDs, from behind.
6) add a mb tray
7) ditch the doofy "Antec" airholes
so far so good, but then you
8) subtract the Sonata's 380s Truepower PSU
9) add $50 to the price (assuming you don't mind the hassle of the frequent $30 Sonata rebates)
$50 less for a case with PSU makes up for 1-7 IMO :)
crimsonson - Monday, February 14, 2005 - link
Nice case. I am still using my Lian-LI PC 60 [a classic].I am looking for a compareable case but with 5 5"bays on the front instead of 4. Anybody have a sugestion.
TR0J - Sunday, February 13, 2005 - link
Great case, very happy. My 2c:1. Removing the front bexel: it is very easy to snap the top two plastic plugs holding the bezel to the fron of the case. Be careful.
2. The firewire and USB cables from the top panel can be confusing to tell apart.
3. I broke the lock on the window panel jsut testing it. Not using it anyway, but very breakable.
4. Mine came with the 2nd fan. I thought it wasn't going to so I bought one.
huges84 - Sunday, February 13, 2005 - link
I have this case, I've had it for 2 months now and I love it. CompUSA has had sales on Antec cases recently. I got mine there. I helped a friend build his first PC recently and we used a Antec Solution series case that I can also say was top notch.The things I was looking for in a case:
-NO FRONT DOOR
-NO STUPID ASS PRE-MOD
-Front firewire, USB, audio. Temp would be nice.
-Plenty of room for expansion
-Matching bezels for drives
-Adequate cooling. Air filter would be nice.
Guess what? P-160 fit the bill perfectly!
A few things not mentioned in the article, even though they've been said here:
-Rubber mounts for the fan
-Removable filter in the front
-Front bezel seems a little flimsy at first, but it is pretty rugged
-The included fan only has a molex connector
-There is an optional windowed side panel
-There are 3 blue LEDs in the chrome openings in the front of the case. They shine from the top onto the bottom, where the light bounces of the 45 degree surface towards you. It looks really sharp. Check out pictures on Newegg or somewhere. Also, they can be disabled by simply disconnecting a fan-type connector if you don't like them.
I only have the one case fan installed, and with the following set-up I run 33C while running folding@home and 37C after 12 hours of Prime95:
A64 3000+ (skt 939) overclocked to 2400 MHz
ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe (NF4)
Overclocked GeForce 6600GT
One ATA133 Harddrive
So you really only need the second fan if you have more than one harddrive, or you extreme overclock, or you have a P4. The case is so quiet that I set my CPU fan to run full blast all the time, because I can't really hear the difference between the speeds unless I have the side off.
The only thing I don't like is that the fan doesn't have a normal fan connector. My motherboard has fan controll capabilities that I want to take advantage of. But since everything is so quiet I am going to buy a fan for the front and while I'm at it I will replace the rear one.
Oh, and as was said, the connections for the firewire port are a pain in the ass, but that's because there is no standard and my motherboard manual did not give good info as to what pin was what.