Ganesh's Midrange HTPC
Hardware Component Price
Processor Intel Core i5-650 Clarkdale 45nm
(Dual-core + HTT, 3.2 to 3.46 GHz, 4MB L3, 73W)
$113
Motherboard ASUS P7H55D-M EVO
(Intel H55, USB 3.0, MATX 1156)
$180
Video Clarkdale Integrated Intel HD Graphics $0
Alternate GPU HIS Silence Radeon HD 5570 1GB (H557HR1G) $75
Alternate GPU Zotac GeForce GT 430 1GB Zone Edition 1GB
(ZT-40601-20L)
$85
Memory G.Skill Eco Series 2x2GB DDR3-1600
(F3-12800CL8D-4GBECO)
$83
Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda XT 2TB
(ST32000641AS 7200RPM 64MB SATA 6.0Gbps)
$170
Optical Drive ASUS 8X Blu-ray/16X DVDR Combo Drive
(BC-08B1ST) ($20 MIR)
$69
Power Supply Antec TruePower New TP-550 550W
(80 Plus Bronze Certified)
$92
Case Antec Black Fusion Remote MATX HTPC $135
Total System Cost (Price range based on GPU choice)  $842-$927 

The PC I've put together is not meant to be a powerful gaming machine/HTPC combo—Alan will cover that next. Instead I've specced out a midrange build that tries to do a bit of everything, while making sure that it excels at HTPC duties. Some of the components are left to choice, depending on the needs of the end user. For example, if gaming and support for native video refresh rates are not necessary for the end user, there is no need to invest in a dedicated graphics card. Similarly, the level of interest in 3D would influence whether to go the NVIDIA or the AMD route for the dedicated graphics card—and how high you might want to go. Many of the components in the system are similar to Balraj's value build, and the cost conscious consumer can refer to that for some of the costlier components in the table below.

For the motherboard, I went with the ASUS P7H55D-M EVO mATX. It is slightly costlier than the ASRock board chosen by Balraj, but you get the option to slot in extra DIMMs and take the total memory installed up to 8GB (or 16GB if you go with 4GB DIMMs). For the CPU, a quiet, dedicated HTPC can make do with Balraj's choice, but I prefer something with more muscle and the ability to Turbo Boost. The Core i5-650 is ideal. The stock cooler is good enough and considering the airflow allowed by my choice of chassis (more on this further down), there is little need to go for a fancier cooling solution.

The DRAM is one of the most understated components in an HTPC build. DIMMs that operate at higher voltages tend to heat up and have a reduced lifespan and also affect the nearby motherboard components. Fortunately, G.Skill has an excellent HTPC oriented DRAM product in the Eco series. 4GB of G.Skill Eco memory wraps up this department. We opted for the CL8 memory, though care needs to be taken to adjust the ASUS motherboard BIOS settings appropriately for the voltage (1.35V) and CAS latencies.

As mentioned earlier, the integrated GPU in the Clarkdale is good enough for most HTPC purposes. However, people wanting a bit more muscle in the gaming department and better video quality should go in for an AMD HD 5570. The better 3D solution right is the GeForce GT 430, which performs as well as the 5570 in most HTPC benchmarks. For people who have already invested in the 3D ecosystem for the rest of their home entertainment, the GT 430 is the way to go. You could try adding a "near-silent" GPU with more performance, but my focus is on keeping things as silent as possible so I limited my selections to fanless GPUs.

For storage, the WD Caviar Blue 500GB is still an option, but I feel that the capacity is too low for a desktop HTPC. Sometimes, I want to do some video editing too, and a fast hard drive helps. The 2TB Seagate Barracuda XT is the best combination of capacity, performance, quietness and price right now. If you want a bit of added performance, the Kingston SSD Now is quite cheap, with deals for the 128GB version coming in at $180. This could be an ideal OS drive choice too, but it increases the cost of the system too much and I wanted to invest the extra money in something that would last through multiple HTPC builds. The ASUS Blu-ray Combo Drive BC-08B1ST is my choice of optical drive for the system. The 8x speed ensures that 3D Blu-ray can also be read without issues. It's a little extra money that I believe is well spent for a reusable component.

The HTPC case is something that I expect to last beyond the usual life of a motherboard and processor. For HTPC purposes, I also like to have an MCE remote / IR receiver. LCD displays and volume controls are icings on the cake. If you're willing to increase your budget, the feature packed Antec VERIS Fusion Remote Max has multiple drive bays and support for ATX motherboards. This would ensure the reusable nature of the case for purposes other than a pure HTPC. However, I wanted to keep costs down so I decided to go for its smaller sibling. The Antec Fusion chassis has similar features with respect to media center capabilities but supports only two internal 3.5" drives and can support only Micro ATX and Mini ITX motherboards. The spacious and well ventilated chassis, along with the three partition internal structure, maintains a cool thermal profile for your HTPC even when the chassis fans are removed.

Unfortunately, the chassis doesn't come with a PSU. Allowing for builds with gaming GPUs requiring external PCI-E power connectors, I budgeted for the well reviewed Antec TruePower New TP-550 550W PSU. With a partially modular cable system, unused cables can be safely stowed away for later use while maintaining a clean assembly inside the chassis.

I have never been interested in the TV content that cable connections have offered. With online streaming becoming so popular, it shouldn't be difficult to view most content on the Internet. However, interested users can add a Hauppauge WinTV tuner to the system if streaming video isn't sufficient.

In the end, depending on your choices for the GPU and optional tuner, we have a good HTPC build that costs anywhere from $850 to $1050 (the higher price includes the GT 430 and WinTV tuner). That's a bit higher than we'd like for a midrange HTPC, but we put some extra money into reusable components. You can build the above system now and upgrade to the Sandy Bridge successor (Ivy Bridge) while keeping several hundred dollars worth of equipment, or you can take the above but wait for Sandy Bridge to come out.

Brian's Dream PC: Reach for the Stars! Alan's Ultimate HTPC
Comments Locked

112 Comments

View All Comments

  • SteelCity1981 - Friday, November 19, 2010 - link

    I honestly don't care if I have the latest tech. the way I look at it new tech comes out every 6 months to a year anyhow. I get tech that suits my needs not what's out there. I'm one of those people that wait until the current tech gets replaced by the latest tech which ends up pushing the last gen tech down in price.

    I'll prob be looking at a first gen AM3 system or a LGA 1156 system early next year to replace my aging S939 system I currently have now. By then a lot of the processors and sockets for those systems should see a nice price drop from where they are now.
  • mapesdhs - Friday, November 19, 2010 - link


    A small note on budget systems one might build for friends, etc.
    (especially those without the tech knowledge). I built a PC for my
    neighbour & his family back in May; decided to see what I could do re
    mixing 2nd-hand 'professional' parts and consumer tech, try to make
    something with a bit of quality. I found a mbd/CPU/gfx/RAM combo for
    135 UKP (ASUS M2N-BM-DVI, Athlon64 X2 6000+, OCZ 2GB DDR2/800, ASUS ORB
    8800GT PCIe), LSI 21320-IS SCSI card for 5, U320 SCSI 73GB 15000rpm
    Fujitsu MAX3073NC and cable/adapter for 15 (knocks the socks off SATA
    for access time), and a company was offering a new Coolermaster
    Centurion Plus 534 case half-price for 25. The rest I bought new: 500GB
    SATA Samsung F1 for 40 (as it was back then), CiT 700W PSU for 30,
    Wireless 54Mbit PCI card for 7 and DVDRW for 18. Total: 275 UKP

    The main idea was to have a fast & responsive system disk, but with a
    normal SATA for data, so it feels very nippy but still has decent
    storage. The resulting setup ran very nicely (and the mbd combo came
    with Stalker, complete/boxed. :)

    http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=138917...

    For a display though, I recommended they buy new, something decent,
    which they did for 138 (LG W2254TQ-PF 22" 1680x1050, 2ms, 300 cdm/2,
    1000:1). Same cost today gets 1920x1080.

    They do a lot of surfing, so the fast system disk really helps.

    Just thought I'd mention for those who like to be a bit adventurous...

    (the landscape of what is available has changed since then, but the
    same concepts still apply)

    Ian.

    PS. Access time speed ref (the Fujitsu beats a WD VR 10K):

    http://www.sgidepot.co.uk/diskdata.html#ACCESS
  • precarious - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    "never mind the old single-core Athlon 64 3800+ running in my daughter's computer!"

    does she really need more than that to download recipes and msds sheets for the latest household cleaning products?
  • JarredWalton - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    FYI, my daughter turns eight tomorrow. LOL It's more like Noggin.com for her.
  • ManjyomeThunder - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    I see that you mention the Das in your ultimate-uber-badass dream gaming rig. And that's perfectly fine, it's a great keyboard, but I thought I'd take a second to clarify a few things.

    1) The link specified is for the "Silent" model of the Das Keyboard, which uses non-clicky, tactile Cherry MX Brown switches. While these keyboards do provide tactile feedback just like, say, the Model M, the majority of any sound produced is from "bottoming out" the keys. The normal Das keyboard uses Cherry MX Blue switches, which are tactile and clicky, and produce a more distinct sound like the Model M, only much more high pitched.

    2) The Das Keyboard is far from being the "modern Model M". If anything, the direct equivalent of the Model M would be the Customizer 101, manufactured by Unicomp in Lexington, Kentucky. They own the rights to the patents and such on the Model M, and produce nearly identical keyboards for an affordable price. I'm typing on a black Customizer 104 now, which costs a fair bit less than the Das keyboard. There are also somewhat smaller models such as the "SpaceSaver" available. Make sure to pick up a model that uses "buckling spring" switches (most of theirs do), because that's what makes it mechanical and clicky.

    3) In addition to Unicomp, there are a large number of mechanical keyboards, including Razer's new BlackWidow, the Deck Legends, Filco Majestouches and Steelseries 7G. There are a lot of different switches, each with their own unique properties, so it's best to look into these things before you buy them. A good place to start would be over at GeekHack. We're all keyboard nerds there.
  • raghu1111 - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    I would like to know estimated idle power consumption for AMD and i3 budget systems. Dell 580s with i3 550 lists idle power at 40 watts.. which is very good.

    My use case : this is an always on computer running ubuntu. I don't plan to put it in sleep mode and hence the sensitivity to power consumption. I have been using a laptop as desktop for this reason so far.
  • JarredWalton - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    Here's Anand's figures from Bench for two similar setups:
    http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/122?vs=143

    Note that those both have a 5870 GPU, so you can knock off around 10-15W if you go with IGP or a low-end GPU. I figure an Intel i3-550 setup can probably get down to around 40W idle power draw for the entire system, depending on components, where an Athlon II X4 will end up 10-15W higher. Running 24/7 you're looking at a power bill difference of around $10-$15 per year in most places, so it's nothing major -- though if you were doing something like a Folding@Home PC I think the difference might be more like 35-40W at load.
  • raghu1111 - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    Thanks Jarred. The page lists 66 W at idle. IGP should be good enough to start with for me. I can disconnect DVD drive (may be just a couple of watts). May be I am looking at best case of 50 W.
  • Out of Box Experience - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    I want a tablet PC that can control a REAL computer in realtime, with compressed graphics sent wirelessly from my tower to the tablet at FULL frame rates.
    It needs wireless usb3 for sending data and controlling the tower with bidirectional throughput (USB2 is a one way street)

    I also want a mini-ITX tower with a built in KVM switch and a power supply that can handle 2 or more motherboards

    I want hard drives that have a read only switch (like SDHC cards) so I can backup ALL my stuff without worrying about viruses & worms

    I want mini-itx motherboards with built in digital audio amps (Low powered for mobility)

    and while I'm dreaming, lets make XP-Pro open source so we can fix it properly and add SSD support!

    and I want it all by Christmas
    Thanx Santa
  • raghu1111 - Saturday, November 20, 2010 - link

    What would be the idle power consumption for i3 550 based budget system. would AMD based much different. Dell lists Inspiron i3 550 based 580s at 40 Watt, which is pretty good.

    My use case : always-on Ubuntu desktop. not planning to set it to sleep mode. 3D graphics performance is a not an issue.

    Thanks.

Log in

Don't have an account? Sign up now