Upgraded Budget System

While our base system builds check in at under $500 (or $530 to $575 with keyboard, mouse, and LCD), adding in various upgrades can push the final price quite a bit higher. We wouldn't recommend going too high on the Intel side just now (i.e. wait for Sandy Bridge to come back), but you can put together a well-rounded AMD setup for just  $650 (or under $800 with peripherals). If you want a snappy "do everything" system—something that can multitask, play games, and store hundreds of gigabytes of music, movies, and pictures—the following system should have you covered.

AMD Upgraded Budget System
Component Type Make & Model Price Rebate
CPU AMD Athlon II X4 640 $100  
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-880GM-D2H $80 ($10)
GPU HIS H577FK1GD 5770 $130 ($30)
RAM Patriot 4GB 2x2GB PSD34G1333K $40 ($5)
SSD Intel 40GB SSD $95  
Hard Drive Hitachi 1TB 7200RPM $50  
Optical Drive LG GH24NS50 $17  
Power Supply Antec Earthwatts EA-380D $40  
Case Antec Three Hundred $43  
Operating System Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit $100  
Total Base System Cost $695 ($45)
Input Microsoft Keyboard and Mouse $15  
Display ASUS VW193DR Black 19" (1440x900) $110  
Complete System Cost $820 ($45)

We've gone with a 40GB SSD for the OS and applications and a 1TB HDD for mass storage. Add to that AMD's quad-core Athlon II X4 640 and a Radeon HD 5770 and you have a setup that can handle just about anything. It won't best the latest and greatest CPUs and GPUs, but it should easily last through several years of college, if that's what you're after—or let grandma and grandpa see all your pictures and videos online. We stayed with the same 380W PSU, but if you're looking at future upgrades and you don't mind paying an extra $10, moving up to the 500W Earthwatts might be a good idea.

Wrap-Up

With DDR3 at about the cheapest it’s ever been, the high end refresh from both Intel and AMD months away, advances on the SSD and HDD fronts, and fierce competition between AMD and NVIDIA, the computer power available to budget users is astonishing right now. Remember to shop around both online and locally. And of course, don’t forget AnandTech’s forums, where you can ask for help and advice with all of your computing needs!

Graphics, Power, and Storage Upgrades
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  • GeorgeH - Monday, February 14, 2011 - link

    I'm saying 380W is fine by referencing readily available data and reviews.

    You're saying 380W is not fine by making claims that have been trivially demonstrated to be completely false.

    LOL indeed.
  • ckryan - Monday, February 14, 2011 - link

    Yes. I have used the 380D in several situations. One 17a rail would only amount to 204w maximum. Even if you've never seen the unit in question, the Anandtech review has a clear shot of the label. Besides, while the 380D is a great PSU, it's not what I'd put in my computer. Why? Because modular is what I need. Antec took some measures to reduce cost by not including a power cable or prettying up the mess of wires.

    By the way, a GPU with two 6pin PEGs can receive up to 75w per plug. That's 150w. That would leave you with 54w to spare on the rail, provided the (up to) 75w a GPU can draw through the PCIe 16x is on another rail. But no one suggests running a 4 or 6 core + a mainstream (or up) GPU with one 17a 12v rail. The maximum power a GTX460 could draw would be 150w from the PEGs and 75 through the Mobo. That would 225w (Or at the wall, with an 80% PSU, you'd be drawing ~275w) in a worst case scenario.
  • Roland00Address - Monday, February 14, 2011 - link

    The Antec Earthwatts EA-380D has two 12 volt rails one at 17 amps and one at 15 amps. These two rails can do a max combined watts of 336 on the 12v rail (336/12=28 combined amps on the 12v rail)

    This psu can easily handle a 5850 or a 460 if you keep the cpu at stock settings and buy a molex to 6 pin adapter.
  • Kaboose - Monday, February 14, 2011 - link

    At least some people know what they are talking about.

    As long as you DON'T OC the CPU, GPU, or RAM you should be fine, and it is hard to find a non-synthetic situation that puts your computer under FULL 100% load.
  • pvdw - Saturday, February 19, 2011 - link

    You really need to do your research:

    http://www.silentpcreview.com/article684-page1.htm...

    And there's a huge difference between a CHEAP psu and a GOOD BUDGET psu. The earthwatts definitely qualifies as good budget.
  • pvdw - Saturday, February 19, 2011 - link

    Oh, and my guess is that you don't know anything about the construction of quality PSUs. Cheap power supplies use low quality parts, can't be used at rated wattage, have horrible ripple and voltage regulation, etc.
  • mgl888 - Monday, February 14, 2011 - link

    Can I suggest that you take out the cost of Windows 7 from the build price? Or at least take it out of the Base System Cost.
    It just seems a little out of place considering it's not a piece of hardware and the price of an OS can vary depending on what you choose to install and where you are getting the software (hopefully legally...).
  • richardginn - Monday, February 14, 2011 - link

    I fully agree.
  • JarredWalton - Monday, February 14, 2011 - link

    Sure we can: subtract $100 from the cost of the systems. BAM! You're at $321 and $345. Come on guys, it's $100 and you can do the math for that one without a second thought.
  • seapeople - Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - link

    Don't be silly, use tech people intent on building our own computer system from scratch NEED you at AnandTech to do all the thinking for us. That is why I hope you are working on the new Bench feature that will purchase and deliver the perfect system to our door.

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