The Raijintek Tisis

Raijintek is yet another new European company, founded in 2013. For a company this new, Raijintek is retailing a fair number of products, which are thirteen coolers, four cases and several fans, with the company now expanding to peripherals and PSUs. The Tisis is Raijintek's most recent and advanced CPU cooler, which was originally baptized "Nemesis" but it was renamed due to a naming collision with another company's similar product.

The Tisis is supplied in a reasonably sized cardboard box with strong black/red artwork on it, focused around a picture of the cooler itself. Inside the box everything is well packed and the cooler is protected inside a polyethylene foam shell. Despite the obviously very rough time our sample had during its shipping to us, everything inside the box was unscathed.

Raijintek kept the bundle to the minimum of things required. Aside from the hardware and thermal grease necessary for the mounting of the cooler and a long L-type Philips PH2 screwdriver, nothing else is provided. It is however noteworthy to mention that there are no wire clips for the fans as this is the only cooler in this roundup review that is using rubber mounts instead.

  

There are two 140 mm fans provided inside the package, both with a red frame and white blades. There is nothing prominent about the fans, with the exception of the partially jagged blades. The OEM is recognizable and is PelHong Technology, a Chinese manufacturer. Both fans are identical, have engines with sleeve bearings and a relatively low maximum speed of just 1.000 RPM.

The Raijintek Tisis is a very large asymmetric dual tower cooler, with the towers completely different from each other. The fins of the front tower are larger and both of their fan-facing sides are jagged, while the fins of the rear tower are smaller and their sides are completely straight. Furthermore, the fins of the front tower have folded sides, effectively forming a wind tunnel that prevents the air from exiting from the sides. Openings for the rubber mounts of the cooling fans can be clearly seen. This method is a little more convenient than wire clips but it also prevents the adjustment of the fan's height, removing the possibility to raise the front fan a little bit to increase the RAM modules clearance. 

The copper base and heatpipes of the Tisis are nickel-plated and polished, especially the contact surface that has been machined down to a perfect mirror finish. Five thick 8 mm heatpipes go through the relatively small base of the Tisis and expand to both fin arrays. For the installation of the cooler, the middle fan needs to be removed, as there is no other way for the screwdriver to reach the base of the cooler. 

The Phanteks PH-TC14PE The Reeven Okeanos RC-1402
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  • Pissedoffyouth - Monday, July 6, 2015 - link

    I wonder how a D15 or similar, with the fans removed, would work with a 45w or 65w APU to make a passively cooled PC. Reply
  • ImSpartacus - Monday, July 6, 2015 - link

    That's a really interesting consideration. Reply
  • MrSpadge - Monday, July 6, 2015 - link

    This will depend greatly on your case airflow. And if you only run short load bursts (browsing etc.) which can easily be absorbed by the heatsink heat capacity or continous loads (games, work), where the exchange of heat from the heatsink to the outside world limits cooling. Reply
  • iamezza - Tuesday, July 7, 2015 - link

    With good fan control you could set the fan to switch off below a certain temp. So it could be silent 99% of the time but with a low rpm fan there if needed. Reply
  • Mumrik - Tuesday, July 7, 2015 - link

    You'd probably still need some level of airflow.

    I've never had a fan on my Scythe Ninja that cools an i5-2500k. I think that's a 95W TDP.

    It's close to the single 12cm rear exhaust though.
    Reply
  • Beany2013 - Wednesday, July 8, 2015 - link

    I did similar with my old SLACR Q6600 95w CPU - Noctua D14 (I think) with a fan on a controller. At stock speeds (with a pair of Noctua case fans on it) it had just enough airflow to run without the CPU fan running at all. When I wanted performance, I could overclock from 2.4ghz to 3.something ghz (I can't remember but I think they went to 3.6ghz?) and just turn the CPU fan up to 'normal' speeds and it'd never get above 70deg and it was still a very quiet machine - HDD noise was far more noticeable than fan noise.

    I really must get some decent fans for my current rig - a slightly long-in-the-tooth A8-3870 mit 16gb RAM that is still running the OEM cooler. Yes, I've got bored of overclocking. I still have that noctua kit kicking around somewhere, really must dig it out and see if I can get an adapter for it. I'm sure that'll tide me over till we see if Zen is worth a light...?
    Reply
  • Essayjedii - Friday, July 10, 2015 - link

    I have made a post about D15 in here <a href="http://www.dumblittleman.com/2015/04/14-problems-f... Hope ou find it interesting and useful. Reply
  • Essayjedii - Friday, July 10, 2015 - link

    I have made a post about D15 in here http://www.dumblittleman.com/2015/04/14-problems-f...
    Hope ou find it interesting and useful.
    Reply
  • Haravikk - Sunday, July 12, 2015 - link

    My current machine is an i7-4790T (45W, 2.7ghz, quad-core, hyper-threaded, 3.9ghz turbo with HD4600 graphics) in an Akasa Euler case, which means the case acts as a heat-sink. As I type this I'm transcoding video on all eight hardware threads with a total load of about 760% (where 800% is max), at a CPU temperature of 85ºC and a clock speed of 2.97ghz.

    Of course that's for a passive case rather than a heat-sink on its own, but as long as you have somewhere for that heat to go it definitely seems doable. For example if you used an open-air case then ought to just rise out between the heatsink fins so airflow may not be required at all.

    Basically keeping the case from becoming a big box of hot air is crucial; the Euler case with my processor (which is a slightly higher TDP than the 35W that the case recommends) gets pretty hot internally, which isn't great for internal drives. I ended up having to swap an mSATA SSD for a 2.5" one, as the mSATA drive just got too hot, while the 2.5" one has a bigger surface area and a metal body. Even so, I squeezed a tiny 40mm fan inside just to help pull hot air out on warmer days.

    So ehm… yeah, possible, but you have to be sure you've considered where that heat is going to go before you attempt it. But as others have said; if your case has room then you should just put fans in there anyway and set them to switch off at lower temperatures; you can also use very slow, quiet fans so even if they do run they're silent.
    Reply
  • Oxford Guy - Tuesday, July 14, 2015 - link

    Stick with a cooler like the NoFan models which are made specifically passive cooling. They will be much more effective. Reply

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